Thursday 16 June 2011

Update of the trip so far - battling with internet connection!!!

Left the Brand in freezing conditions, only thawed out at Bethlehem.
(I must mention that the roads to date are BETTER than the roads in the Free State.)
Entered Swaziland at "houtkop" border post, and spent the night at Simunye Sugar estate, very lekker.
We entered Mozambique and were ripped off by the "runners" at the border post, they crowd you, take the papers, confuse you and then get money from each and every one of us, when we are not together.
We went into Maputo, experienced the traffic there, and picked up a fine of R500 for going down an unmarked one way, and that was after some hectic negotiations.
Met the EL crowd at the Honey Pot at Xai Xai, and got to know one another again!!!(Very cool camp site)
Lunched at Inhambane (Maxixe)
Stayed at an amazing camp site in Morongulu, the EL crowd enjoyed the campsite so much that they spent another night. Stunning scenery.
Spent the night at Inhassora at "Goody Villa" camp site, another amazing campsite on the beach, with stunning views of Bazarutho island. We had ice cold beers at the local kukka shop, it was extremely hot, but the locals are amazingly friendly.
We did a long leg to Gorongoza Game park, but were not allowed to camp in the Park, so ended up camping on on Piet van Zyl's camp ground, a local farmer, very nice, but unlicenced, so we made a donation to them.
Ran a bit late, had lunch at Quelimane, and did a hectic run at night to Praia de Salala, through the chaotic traffic, (Maseru at it's worst is a "Cake walk"), single lane road, full of massive potholes, and oncoming traffic that never lets up. Got there late at night, and Doug / Rudi negotiated some rooms for us. No hot water, and Roger and Jo's bed collapsed in the early hours of the morning, say no more!!!
We did 200 km of dirt to the Malawi border, hectic for the vehicles, but very lekker for the bikers. 
Stayed at a very nice place on a Tea Estate, (extremely beautiful countryside), and we were allowed to bring our trailer to their kitchen, use their kitchen facilities, and use our own liquor!!
Went to Senga Bay to a stunning camp site called "Step Camp", which was so nice we spent an extra night there. We took a boat to an island and the locals did a fish braai for us on the island. We all did a bit of snorkelling, and fed the fish eagles, amazing!!
The next leg was to Makuzi Beach, which is run by a wonderful couple, Richard and Lauren, who could not do enough for us, also on the beach, and very nice.
We were harrased by the Police in Malawi for our third party insurance which neglected to buy, and many speeding fines. There was also NO FUEL anywhere in Malawi, so there was  some serious planning done.
On the way to Songwe Border Post we climbed up to the top of a huge mountain with the most amazing view of the Lake. Border post was extremely hectic, very hot, and hordes of people everywhere. We climbed up through high ground and it was like night in the day, very misty and cold, to Mbeya, and then onto the Trans Tanzania highway. This highway is a Hell run for trucks, and we saw several accidents, one that had just happened, and truck wrecks all along the way. These trucks also have no respect for little bikes, and use the whole road, especially around bends.
This was an extremely long leg, and again we ended up in Chele at night. Couldn't find a camp site, and a local man, Francis, went out of his way to find us a place to stay. We parked all the vehicles in the local Red Cross hall, and slept in the hall on the floor. Also our first experience of the squat toilets.
From here we went to the "Old Farmhouse", had a 5 star breakfast, with pancakes, Parma ham, and too much else to mention.
The scenery from that point was amazing, to say the least. We went to Iringa, and on to the Tan Swiss camping gound in Mikumi, a very nice camp site again.
This is the start of Mikumi National Park, and the highway goes through the middle of it. We saw elephant, giraffe, buck and baboons, but others saw lions as well.
Tanzania is a spectacular country and again the people are super friendly, even the traffic police, and the highway has massive speed bumps in every little settlement, and they are one on top of the other, so one cannot seem to get going.
On this road was also the baobab valley, that stretches for about 60 km, in the valleys and to the top of the mountains, unbelievable.
The leg from Tan Swiss to Dar es Salaam was very hectic, almost no break in the traffic, wild trucks, cars overtaking into on coming traffic all the time, quite stressful.
We are now camped at Silver Sands, in Dar. The chalets must have been great at some stage, but the place is quite run down, and we have done a few hell runs on the bikes to a decent Shoprite, you need to drive like the locals, overtake on the left and the right, dodge oncoming trucks, and sweat your way in bumper to bumper traffic to the shop and back.
We rendezvoued with the EL guys, one of their vehicles, "Lipstick" spent the day in Dar, on a pavement, replacing three shocks, and three coil springs, which were gone!!!
Huge party, and spending the day recovering, some have gone to Zanzibar for the day.

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